O is for observation. I typically pair observation with the word – interpretation. Just what did you “think” you saw? Do you understand that “observation” the same as others who also might have looked at...? We may have looked at the same - whatever. Did we focus on it in the same way? The more I share some of my photos, have others comment – I didn't see that? Maybe we all have an imprecise way of visually acquiring “data.” That’s probably why I take so many photos. Attempting to move around and see it in maybe another way.
One of the people in the tour group wrote; Marion, ahead of us and behind all at the same time, constantly finding a new shot, a new angle -- always the figure of action, of inexhaustible energy and cheerfulness while the rest of us were likely to be flagging, Carol meanwhile quiet and amused.
Guess that explains what she observed and interpreted. Pretty much – straight on in my “view.” (-:
Breakfast again at the Hotel Diana rooftop garden area. I can say I will not leave the place as a hungry person. Today, will start out with a visit to another church - The Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, that is the church of "Mary Major." Yesterdays church visit was to Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri – Saint Mary of the Angels and Martyrs. For those of the Roman Catholic faith – special days. It starts with All Hallows' Eve to most known as Halloween. Check this out, if interested in more details. The next 2 days, Nov. 1 & 2 are known as Tutti santi, All Saints' Day (Ognissanti) is followed by La commemorazioni dei defunti (or Tutti i morti).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hallowmas
Both days, we attend the church religious services. Here are some comments by others who attended this year and times past.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187791-d192274-r183690310-Basilica_di_Santa_Maria_Maggiore-Rome_Lazio.html
I love finding these additional websites to see how other interpret their observations.
http://www.italiannotebook.com/local-interest/tutti-santi-festa-dei-morti/
http://www.timeout.com/rome/features/300/festivals-events-in-rome
http://www.eyeitalia.com/ognissanti-all-saints-samhain-halloween-italy/
I realize that I am diverting your attention to things I think are important, maybe not yours. Before coming, a few people I talked to who had also visited, commented about the A-B-Cs. No, not the alphabet like I am doing, but ABC, translates to Another Big or Beautiful Church. Those who have never been here, may not realize how beautiful the buildings, to include mosaic floors, statuary, and paintings that are available for viewing by the public. Most at no charge. Too many times, a fee is paid to access viewing “art,” whatever you personally define as art.
I am very pleased to have this time to visit. Especially, this “extra” time we arranged for before starting our scheduled tour. We are enjoying the time spent in all these places. Hope you have either had the same experience or can at least hope to have a chance to visit.
After the church service, we spent the remainder of the day visiting many of the sites of Roman ruins. This sort of takes me back to a comment I made on Day Zero of this journal. I showed a photo of Detroit. In the foreground was a dilapidated home on a weed-filled lot. In the background was the buildings that houses the General Motors headquarters, just a few blocks away. Here in Rome, the same sort of differences are seen. These “ruins” are even more limited in what is available to be seen. It could be just a column or two that at one time supported a large beautiful building. Next to the ruins are much newer, still in use buildings. Here, we have a tour guide filling the spaces that are no longer here to be seen, but are described verbally. Maybe at some time, we can appreciate what the remaining old buildings in Detroit represented in a prior great time.
Photo 1. The main aisle to the altar of Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
Photo 2. Shows an article of special remembrance of the dead in the church
Photo 3. As we neared our hotel, noticed a much smaller neighborhood church having their special way of remembering loved ones
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay15of28
P for Pantheon, not the Parthenon, which is located in Acropolis, Greece. If you missed the info link in a prior day of the journal:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pantheon,_Rome
There was also an Ancient Rome in 3D on Google Earth online in 2008. Unfortunately, was terminated later because of legal issues. Here is a sample of what “was” available. So sorry I missed it )-:
http://vimeo.com/32038695
Today is the first day of our official Road Scholar tour. Since, most of our group – 32 people, won’t arrive until the afternoon, Carol & I have most of the day available to meander more through Rome.
Later in the day, we meet our two tour guides, who work for Trinity College. The College has been providing support for the Road Scholar (Elderhostel) Italy tours for more than 20 years. The guides shown in the photo are Michela Piras and Cristina Davanzo.
After our dinner, we have a short meeting in a hotel conference room, then adjourn for La Passeggiata, the Italian ritual evening walk. We get to find the ATM, Opera House, Post Office and a few of the sites we will visit in the coming days.
http://italyinside.blogspot.com/2008/11/rome-walking-maps-centro-storico-circle.html
Photo 1. Our talented, and funny guides – Michela & Cristina
Photo 2. A copy of the daily events that are posted the evening before for use to plan and know timing for departures
Photo 3. Our first La Passeggiata (-:
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay16of28
Quality, Quantity and Queries all start with the letter Q. Over the next 12 days we will see many beautiful things. Along the way, many questions. Hopefully, most of them may have answers.
After breakfast, go for lecture in the hotel meeting room. Topic of Welcome To Rome will be presented by Ann Giletti. Ann, like all the lecturers that follow, live in Italy and have advanced degrees in history, art or archeology. Truly, we will be treated to Adventures in Learning as stated in our Road Scholar literature.
At 10:30, we depart by bus to a site about 1/2 mile away. Here we meet our local specialist guide, Elisabetta Interdonato, an archeologist, who will provide details on the Colosseum and the Roman Forum facilities. Although the design for what is a 50,000 person stadium was designed about 2,000 years ago, it is a classic. Our “modern” US football stadiums, or as we spell it – coliseum – follows the same design. First, we visit the area of the Colosseum.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colosseum
http://archeoroma.beniculturali.it/en/archaeological-site/colosseum
This link is to a group photo we took today.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013RSItalyAlbum112113#5959093419845335682
Then, we have lunch at Ristorante Cleto. Elisabetta mentions during lunch that interest in archeology has diminished. Currently at the university she went to, only a handful of students are pursuing that field of study. We wonder, who will be the people making the discoveries and studies in the future?
http://www.ristorantecleto.it/index_eng.htm
Now, off to the Forum. Although much of what we see is “ancient,” new finds are made daily. Whether it is rebuilding a pipeline for water or some other new construction, what we see has been buried for centuries, if not longer into millennia. With less archeologists, will these “finds” be not thought valuable?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roman_Forum
While at the Forum area. I convinced the group it might be a good idea to have a group snapshot. Although in prior tours we waited until we all knew each other better, said let’s maybe do it both ends of the tour. Then pick the best. On our trip to Amalfi area, one of our group tripped on first day – broke arm in 3 places, and flew back to USA. We never know what might happen.
Sure enough, the next day one of the couples had to leave because of a family emergency. They sent a note later thanking us for including them in the group, even though we had barely started on tour itinerary.
Late afternoon, we return to hotel for lecture on Vatican Treasures and the Borghese Gallery by Antonella DeMichelis.
I learned a “new” word today – Palimpsest. New for me, but 3,000 years old though. "A palimpsest is a manuscript page from a scroll or book from which the text has been scraped or washed off and which can be used again."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palimpsest
Dinner is at Antica Boheme on Via Napoli 4.
http://www.anticaboheme.it/Home.aspx
I must say – it was an exciting day. So much to take in both visually and verbally. I think though my camera did a better job than my ears and brain. This next link does a great job of showing you just where we visited and the many, maybe too many, things we saw. The map shows the route we basically traveled. Make sure you scroll down on left column to see the link to the 13 points of interest. Click on each of the red numbered squares to get more details and some photos.
http://www.everytrail.com/guide/roman-forum-coliseum-and-capitoline-hill/map
Photo 1. Prepping for our group photo near Forum
Photo 2. Our local specialist guide, Elisabetta Interdonato sharing her knowledge
Photo 3. Great food every day, everywhere (-:
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay17of28
R U Ready 2 Rumble? Yep, the letter R today. Think Renaissance, Religion and Reality. All three have links between. All the way from the ancient to the modern. When we “see” art, is it a “real” or imagined event? Was it influenced by factors like religion or? Much for me to consider as I view everything.
I’ll jump ahead a bit in today’s photos. We are on a bus. Most of us strangers. Talking about either what our interests are or topics that some may wonder should be including; politics, religion and art in the same conversation? Why not? There was a time where there was no boundary between those 3 topics.
We leave @ 7:45 by bus to visit the Vatican, with a new guide, Rachel Potts. We will see the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica.
http://www.rome-museum.com/?gclid=CKOwqZuzq7sCFYUWMgodEQ8AUA
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vatican_Museums
http://www.museivaticani.va/3_EN/pages/MV_Home.html
http://www.aviewoncities.com/rome/vaticanmuseum.htm
And, a “virtual” tour, without the crowds –awesome to get so close, which as visitors, no photos allowed:
http://www.openculture.com/2013/05/take_a_3d_virtual_tour_of_the_sistine_chapel_st_peters_basilica_.html
Yes, we have to “queue up” everywhere we go. Luckily, we have tickets already purchased. In many of the location we visit, the line waiting to just purchase the tickets are long, So far, no rain to hinder our treks. To wait in the rain and cold would not be a preferred way to tour. After getting to the Vatican entrance point, find we cannot use our “Whisper” devices. Instead, must use the “Vatican authorized” and additionally paid for equipment.
After our visits to the various Vatican locations arranged for us, a short stop at a shop just outside of St. Peters. Savelli’s Mosaic Art Gift Shop that was filled with many beautiful and expensive things. Such craftsmanship by the people they employ.
http://www.savellireligious.com/en/content/4-info-savelli-group
http://www.deliciousitaly.com/guide/central-italy-regions/lazio-guide/lazio-handicrafts/item/1493-savelli-mosaic-art-school-rome.html
We are left to get lunch on our own, which at times is preferred. The weather is nice, so Carol & I get sandwiches and drinks from a roadside vendor. We sit on a curb and “people watch.” We see many of the high level religious men also stepping out from the Vatican area to get a bite to eat. So many have their heads covered with a colored cap or biretta (3 or 4 corner hat). We wonder, why all the colors? I have seen photos of the pope with white. Cardinals, of course, like the bird, red. Bishops wear purple. The black though, with different color tufts on top? Why?
Here is the answer.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biretta
After lunch was “free time.” We opted to take the bus back to the hotel area and try to visit one of the nearby churches that has a Caravaggio painting. Found the church was not open that day for visitors. So we went meandering around other places that we had not yet seen. A nice walk on a lovely afternoon.
We meet the group for dinner @ Ristorante Cotto on Via Torino 124
http://www.cottoroma.it/index.php?option=com_admirorgallery&view=layout&Itemid=105
The food is delicious and artistically presented. The discussion at our table was very “intense.” Should the Roman Catholic church sell some of the valuable art pieces to help the poor? Pope Francis he expressed the need for the rich to help the poor. From what we viewed as property of the church, is some pricey art. Needless to say, we don’t call the shots nor have insight into any plans.
After dinner, we are served another variation of many on tiramisu. We then walked back to the hotel to rest before another busy day.
Photo 1. Is our group on bus to Vatican area, Most talking about, what will we see?
Photo 2. Shows a night photo I took of St. Peter’s Basilica from our hotel rooftop. Beautiful.
Photo 3. Our table group of 10 discussing politics and religion (-:
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay18of28
Sss, the sound of a snake or letter S? For us, it is for seeing and stories we share with others in the group and later when home.
We have another fun and exciting day planned. First, we take a bus to Villa Borghese and look through the art gallery.
http://www.galleriaborghese.it/borghese/en/evilla.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Villa_Borghese_gardens
This link shows a sample of a “few” art pieces from who are thought of as important artists. To think, we have several more galleries to visit yet on our remaining trips through Florence and Venice. Yes, quite a lot to take in and understand.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galleria_Borghese
I was fortunate enough to have a fellow group member, Chip Mossman, suggest reading about Bernard Berenson and Renaissance Art. Two of those I have reviewed since returning are:
http://www.amazon.com/Berenson-Italian-Painters-Renaissance-Illustrations/dp/B0055D471A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_3/186-5650096-5119668
http://www.amazon.com/Looking-at-Pictures-Bernard-Berenson/dp/0810900424/ref=pd_sim_sbs_b_2
Here is a short article on the man and his plan.
http://itatti.harvard.edu/content/bernard-berenson
These two books helped me in the way I might “See” art. The best I understand is when looking or seeing the piece of art I must remember a few things. Context: Is what I am looking at an allegory or realism? What is the point of historic timeline the art was done? Who commissioned the artist? Where was the piece done?
Guess I have to leave without some of these being answered. For me, still too much “extra work” in enjoying or find annoying. Just like gas mileage in cars - your results may vary (-:
Next, was my daily favorite – another meal. This time @ Ristorante Ciccia Bomba on Via del Governo Vecchio.
http://touristmeetstraveler.com/2013/restaurant-review-ciccia-bomba-rome-italy-reasonably-priced-delicious/
Doesn’t the photos of the food look tempting? It is even better when you are the person eating it (-:
To help walk off some of what we ate, we go on the Piazza Walk: Piazza Navona, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon and Piazza Spagna.
http://www.everytrail.com/guide/piazzas-and-highlights-of-the-campus-martius-part-2/map#poi-7
Do click in item 8 of the pull down menu on the left column. To get info on the Piazza Navona.
Although this link does not show many of the places we visited, it does show the many piazzas in the city. Each of these “plazas” has a fountain to provide water for the local neighborhood to use. The water comes via aqueducts from the mountains in the far north of Italy. We have to remember these fountains were flowing on their own prior to the use of electric pumps. All done strictly through gravity. Very good engineering well over a 1,000 years ago.
Piazza Navona http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piazza_Navona
Trevi Fountain http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trevi_Fountain
Pantheon http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pantheon,_Rome
Piazza di Spagna & The Spanish Steps http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piazza_di_Spagna
We had the option to take a cab back or walk to the hotel. With a full day of walking, you can bet we tipped the driver well.
Carol & I eat dinner at the small café just around the corner from the hotel. Need to get our bags together for train ride to Florence. Bags need to be outside our room at 5 a.m. for travel arrangements to Florence. We don’t have to “schlep” our own bags the few blocks to the train terminal – nice!
Photo 1. I am not the only one in the group with a camera in hand all the time
Photo 2. Our group visiting small as well as large sites of interest
Photo 3. Pasquino statue - a place for posting satirical notes (-:
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay19of28
T is for Tour Guides, Trains & Tiramisu. What a combination.
We start today's visit with a short walk. Only a block away with Rachel Potts who will be our guide at the Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. On the way, we pass Carol & my favorite local café and say goodbye to Massimo, the owner, and Umberto, our frequent waiter.
http://www.romeguide.it/palazzomassimo/palazzomassimoalletermeeng.htm
Carol & I have already visited this museum during our “extra days.” We spent 7 enjoyable, interesting hours there. We are glad to go this time with a person who is more familiar with certain items and are thankful for that. I am convinced my time is better spent having a guide to act as an “advisor” as to the “must see” things. After saying that, am still glad we had time to to study things of interest to us, even if not on some special list of – don’t miss...
We spent about 90 minutes in this museum. Of course, the 7 hours we were there last week helped to see things in a non-hurried fashion. On both the visits, noticed other groups who spent less that half the time we did on this visit. Such a shame. They are missing the chance to see so much. Am sure the person who made the brochure used for their tour said - we will “visit” the (fill in the blank). Whether they had time to truly observe and digest all, is doubtful in my view.
Thought I would add this timelapse video with a day travel of Rome in a few minutes - enjoy (-:
http://vimeo.com/62293772
Before getting on the high speed train –220 Kph – we have lunch @ Cucina Nazionale on Via Nazionale 3. The review below agrees with our taste test – good food.
http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Europe/Italy/Lazio/Rome-144659/Restaurants-Rome-La_Cucina_Nazionale-BR-1.html
We had a short walk to the train terminal. Was astounded by the throngs of people going every which way. We found our way to track #6 where the train awaited us for departure to Florence. The ride was smooth with only two stops along the way. Looking out the window to the ever-changing scenery was grand. Before we knew it – the Florence stop was here.
We only had to pull our bags maybe 300 yards to get to Hotel Rivoli, our home for the next four days.
http://www.hotelrivoli.it/en/
We had a chance to “explore” for a few hours before dinner. With no time to waste, it was off in the direction we would be touring over the next few days. “Just down the block,” - a 15 minute walk was our first “surprise.” The Basilica of Santa Maria Novella located on Piazza di Santa Maria Novella.
http://chiesasantamarianovella.it/en
http://www.panoramicearth.com/5479/Florence/Piazza_di_Santa_Maria_Novella
Since we were only on a let's check things out schedule, expanded the walk to a few more blocks until the next surprise – The Duomo. Wow.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florence_Cathedral
From there, decided to try finding our way back to the hotel and came across a street filled with vendor carts. Most were selling leather goods and other specialties of the Florence area. Later we were told the much cattle is raised in the area. The cowhides are then used for leather goods from wallets – which I bought - and beautiful jackets.
A few twist and turns of the streets later, we are back at the Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. From there, leisurely walk back to the hotel in time to walk back the same route to our dinner destination. We had another great meal – this time at Ristorante Benedicta. Needless to say, we couldn’t turn down an opportunity for another tasty meal – and hope we can walk off all the extra calories.
http://www.ristorantebenedicta.it/area_en.asp?idCategoria=5
Again, another variation on a theme - Tiramisu . Yummy.
Photo 1. Is our Tour Guide – Rachel Potts
Photo 2. Shows our fast Train to Firenze
Photo 3. Tiramisu # 10 (-:
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay20of28
U is for Understanding. Do I see what my eyes show me? Do my ears let me hear what is said? Simple questions – not so simple answers.
While visiting Malta on the tour two weeks earlier, was listening to a lecture regard the ecology of the country. We were being told that fresh water is scarce on such a small island. This is unlike Italy, where the water comes from the winter snow packs on the mountains in the North. I “thought” I heard the water for Malta came from the “Reservoir of Moses,” which I wrote down on a note pad. When I brought this information up to a member of the group was told – I DIDN’T hear the correct information. Water was provided through “reverse osmosis” of the salt water all around the island. So goes my understanding. We all might have a similar issue, no matter what of our senses we think are the best source to help our understanding.
With that said, I go to the Hotel Rivoli meeting room to hear a lecture by Paola Vojnovic presentation on Welcome To Florence. Did I hear everything correctly? I don’t have any way to really know. I did appreciate though what I think I heard. More adventures in a new location.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florence
After the lecture, Paola walks with us to her next presentation at the Bargello Museum. Since Paola is an art historian, helps us examine the development of sculptures from antiquity through the Renaissance. Emphasis was on the artists: Ghiberti, Donatello and Michelangelo.
From there, we have lunch @ Ristorante Baroncelli on Chiasso dei Baroncelli.
http://www.osteriadeibaroncelli.it/en/galleria.html
The food looked as good as the photos and tasted even better.
Next stop, a walk to the Centro Arte e Cultura. We get to see a 30 minute film about our next stop – The Baptistery.
We get our first good look at The Duomo (The Dome), a masterpiece of architecture by Brunelleschi.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filippo_Brunelleschi
This PBS link has many great references.
http://www.pbs.org/empires/medici/renaissance/brunelleschi.html
In case you missed the PBS video of 2003, try the local library for a copy
http://www.pbs.org/empires/medici/show/dvd.html
I know – whoa – TMI - too much info to look for. I take to heart the Road Scholar slogan – Learning Through Adventure. I may have said this earlier; I spend weeks, if not months, trying to learn more about a place I just came from. Feel free to skip the ones you think might get you off the easier day to day journal entries without using the links.
Our last stop today, before having some free time before joining members of the group for dinner is The Baptistery. Located across the Piazza from the Duomo. Even the doors have a special story.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florence_Baptistery
I was lucky to get invited to have dinner at a wonderful place, Buca Mario, just a short distance from the hotel. Florence is known for a special cut of beef. When we saw what was being served once inside the ristorante, thought – are they serving a pot roast? No, just a big piece of meat. Ned, our tour partner, decided to order the wild boar, thinking it might be a special treat. After seeing the lady at the next table over get a cut of the special beef served, suggested she trade a piece of boar for a small taste of the beef. She declined and ate what looked like a 24 ounce cut – with no side dish served with it. For me – forgot what I ate, but remembered drinking a “Bellini” named after a famous Renaissance artist. Later I find there were 3 members of the Bellini family who were famous artists.
http://www.wga.hu/html_m/b/bellini/
OK – time for a rest. More stories tomorrow (-:
Photo 1. Is title slide of morning lecture
Photo 2. Shows Cosimo Medici – The “Godfather” of Florentine Politics
Photo 3. Our eager group soaking in the art of the Bargello Museum (-:
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay21of28
V is for Vecchio, Vehicles & Virgins. To that, I add – Value. Since our visit to the Vatican Museums, some of us have been pondering – what is the Value of the entire collection? Guess it depends on who you ask. An appraiser who would want to sell – maybe one value. If asking the Vatican – priceless, which is probably shorthand response for – none of your business.
If “all” of it were put up for sale, would that diminish the price a collector would pay? What value is it for the public to be able to view it, or is it possible to be put into a private collection that might keep it from view? I speculate on this after becoming aware of a book and special effort by the Renaissance art critic Bernard Berenson as the “Homeless Paintings of the Italian Renaissance” project. Are these pieces kept out of sight to increase the sale value of those still seen? Go figure (-:
http://itatti.harvard.edu/berenson-library/collections/fototeca-photograph-archive/homeless-paintings-italian-rena
Now, on to today's activities. We met with Elaine Ruffolo to hear a lecture on Renaissance art – titled – From the Dawn of the Renaissance to the Crisis of Mannerism” Uffizi Prep. Before going to visit the Uffizi Gallery, it was good to get preparation for all we would see – without guide. What a blessing to have this before going. Simply said – Wow. So much art to see, let alone a chance to study even a few of the “Masterpieces.”
http://www.uffizi.com/
I found this wonderful article about Elaine online and thought it might be good to read about what she “sees.” Many of the other guides are just as talented as Elaine. As we hear too often – you just had to be there to...
http://www.smithsonianjourneys.org/study_leaders/elaineruffolo/
This next link has an explanation of how a Wisconsin girl leaves the farm to live in Florence (-:
http://www.theflorentine.net/articles/article-view.asp?issuetocId=6681
After reading this article, wonder how many people get the “bug” to return to Italy to learn more about the Art of the Renaissance. Just like the members of the many Road Scholar and other groups she and other guides have helped.
After wandering the halls, and losing focus on what I was a really looking at, decided Carol & I need lunch. We went to the rooftop restaurant with Ned and Lou from our group. We had a leisurely lunch and looked out over much of Florence – how grand. Ned & Lou go off on their own and Carol & I resume viewing a few other smaller galleries within the building. Once the head told me – I’m full - said, let go walk the Ponte Vecchio Bridge. What a story to this old bridge, even to why the Nazi did not destroy it during World War II as they had other bridges that allowed the Allied troops to advance on them. The link below gives a bit more history, to include the “lover’s locks.” The reference to an opera - the bridge is mentioned in the aria "O mio babbino caro" - is special to a member of our group, Gini, who has sung this operatic piece. I was able to make a video of her singing to us later on the trip while we are in Venice.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ponte_Vecchio
After additional – wandering around – Carol & I go back to the hotel to meet the group and go for dinner @ Giubbe Rosse on Piazza della Repubblica 13.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caffè_Giubbe_Rosse
http://www.florence.ala.it/giubbeRosse/giubbeRosse.html
We finish the evening with a nice moonlit walk back to the hotel. Tomorrow, another adventure.
Photo 1. The Ponte Vecchio bridge which leads from the Uffizi Museum across the Arno River
Photo 2. Which of these 3 Vehicles – all Ferrari’s do you want?
Photo 3. What is the Value of the art that portray the Virgin Mary? (-:
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay22of28
W for Waking, Walking, & Waiting. To all this, I need to make sure I say Wonderful. A chance to see so many things with my own eyes and not thru those of a photographer using 2 dimensions. The photos don’t truly represent many of these beautiful 3 dimensional art pieces. This includes the many building we have seen and had time to visit.
We start this day with Jane Zaloga, who will present a lecture on The Medici. A family who has been involved with; art & architecture and politics & popes. Jane Zaloga has a PhD in the History and Theory of Architecture from Harvard University. I found a link that tells a bit about Jane and her history and architecture background. While looking at this site also found a link to help “re-visit” the Uffizi Gallery and see each picture in each gallery – without the crowds (-:
http://www.edstephan.org/tuscany/7.html
Complete Catalogue: For a painting-by-painting catalog, go there, select a room, then a painting, then click "image".
http://www.virtualuffizi.com/uffizi/roomsidx.htm
The Medici family burials is here at the Basilica di San Lorenzo – very plain on the outside.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_San_Lorenzo,_Florence
Jane only has an hour on our schedule. We then have an hour with Cristina and Michela, our tour “shepherds,” to prep us for getting ready for the trip to Venice by train tomorrow morning.
We follow this with lunch @ Ristorante Lorenzo de Medici on Via del Giglio 49R
http://misiedo.com/en/italia/firenze/firenze/lorenzo-de-medici/
Yummy pizza, with about 4 different sets of topping served as the prior serving was enjoyably savored.
We then walk in the rainy drizzle that greets us with cooler weather than we have had over the past 3 weeks. We mostly had wonderfully mild, dry weather the whole trip.
Paola Vojnovic, who welcomed us to Florence, and guided our tour to the Bargello Museum on Friday, takes us to see the Accedemia. If we only saw one item here that was special, it was the Michelangelo version of the David statue – all 14 feet tall of it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_(Michelangelo)
http://www.sbas.fi.it/english/accademia/
An online Accedemia room by room virtual tour is here.
http://www.sbas.fi.it/english/accademia/visita/
Check out the view of The Tribuna del David
After return to the hotel to “freshen up,” it was a special evening at Palazzo Borghese for Renaissance dining and entertainment. At some point, most of our group was individually selected by a court jester to play a part in one of the skits. I was selected to rescue a damsel in distress, who was bound by a locked chain. I had to find the member of the audience who had the key to unlock the chains. In order to get the key released from that person, I had to kiss the hand of the lady holding it. I thought, why stop at the hand, why not play the lothario and kiss her up her arm. Lovely Alice enjoyed the special attention. (-:
http://www.palazzoborghese.it/en/english.html
This next link provides some comments on the entertainment, and also the waiting in line at many of the museums they visited. For us, it was usually an early waking. With walking to all places we visited, but luckily, our waiting was not as long as a few who complained in this TripAdvisor link.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187895-d1101504-r142015708-Caf_Tour_Travel-Florence_Tuscany.html
After an evening of fun and frolicking, it was off to bed. Again, our luggage must be outside the room door by 6 a.m. At least we won’t have to drag the bags thru the rain we have had this past day.
Photo 1. Jane’s title slide on Medici Family
Photo 2. Shows Jane, an American ex-pat, who like many of our guides, came for a “visit,” and decided to stay
Photo 3. The Basilica di San Lorenzo – final resting place for many of the Medici family
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay23of28
X is for X-citing? X-trordinary? X-mas? Xlendi? If you weren’t visiting the Island of Gozo in Malta – you probably don’t have a clue about Xlendi.
Hey, I am running our of ideas for the letter X that would fit into the theme of this tour. All the “modified" examples would fit though. It was an exciting and extraordinary experience. I hope some day to return just a bit later than we did this year and experience the cultural ambience of the holiday events. This trip – Carol would say any trip we go on – has been truly marvelous. My senses have been revived and am looking forward to planning the next adventure.
After getting out of the train terminal, laid eyes on a church across the canal - Chiesa di San Simeon Piccolo
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Simeone_Piccolo
No more than 50 steps more towards the hotel Principe, where we are staying, we stand next to Scalzi or Santa Maria de Nazaret. If I kept walking – which I did later – past the Hotel Principe on Rio Terra Lista di Spagna, I view - the Church of San Geremia, which also has a special chapel for St. Lucy.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Lucy
After that, the list goes on with almost 150 Roman Catholic churches in Venice.
http://www.churchesofvenice.co.uk/venchurches.htm
Here is the list of churches in our "neighborhood."
http://www.churchesofvenice.co.uk/santacroce.htm
http://www.churchesofvenice.co.uk/demolished.htm
http://www.churchesofvenice.co.uk/islands.htm#lecapp
I was awed by the details provided for each of the churches with the benefit of old drawings and paintings of those locations.
http://www.gardenahotels.it/hotel_principe/eng/home.htm
We have lunch at the hotel and a chance to “wander” a bit before our 4: 30 lecture. Lots to see, but easy to get lost if you start crossing bridges over canals not realizing – where am I? How will I get back? People will help “point” you in the direction, but the path is not straight (-:
The lecture prepares us for what’s next. Monica Chojnacka provided a Welcome To Venice presentation. Monica lives in Venice. She earned her Ph.D. in European history from Stanford University and her bachelor's from the London School of Economics and Political Science. From 1994-2007 she was a professor of history at the University of Georgia, where she authored numerous articles and publications. She has published books relating to Venice on topics as diverse as women of the Renaissance and food and wine. Monica continues to teach in Venice, primarily for study abroad programs for U.S. universities, as well as on-line courses. Here is an article you might find of interest. Where did women live, after getting married?
http://journals.cambridge.org/action/displayAbstract?fromPage=online&aid=147093
Like past presentations, Monica was very helpful. There is just so much you can absorb from the Road Scholar literature. Maybe even less if you start doing online searches without the benefit of – what is the planned itinerary? Having a chance to chat with a person who lives there - priceless as the credit card ads say?
We have dinner at the Ristorante Povoledo, just to the left of the hotel entrance. Food looks good that is displayed in the front window. Once on the lips and tongue, even better.
http://www.trattoriapovoledo.com/public/en/locale.htm
After a short post-dinner walk, decide time to catch shut-eye, since we got up early to make sure the luggage was available for transport to the train. Much better option than dragging it along to Florence train terminal. This morning's weather was testy – cold, rainy and a high winds that made most umbrellas useless – forever and ever )-:
Photo 1. Why doesn’t the USA have the high speed trains and tracks that allow making a curve @ 100 mph?
Photo 2. The view of Venice outside our hotel – of course, the water side
Photo 3. Our next time in Malta, stay at Xlendi Cove Gozo (-:
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay24of28
Y is the letter in part of the word – Why? Why do we have to leave? The longer we stay, the more I realize how much more I need to investigate and learn about.
Only 3 more days we have to explore. Have adventures. To eat. Laugh. Have fun.
We start with a boat ride @ 8:45. We board a vaporetto – which translates to “little steamer.” Except, no steam, it is powered by a diesel engine. We are on our way to visit St. Mark’s Square and the Basilica. BTW – By The Way – while we were in Rome in the earlier part of this tour, found that many buildings were referred to as basilicas. Those early buildings were not part of a particular religion, but referred to the shape of the building.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vaporetto
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piazza_San_Marco
As we get off the boat and enter Piazza San Marco, notice the brickwork we are standing on is wet. At first think – how nice, they wash it off to make it look nice. Instead, find that we are viewing an Aqua Alta. This is when high tides and/or high winds push water ashore and flood the Piazza. Some say that Venice is “sinking.” Others attribute it to a global rise of the oceans. I now better appreciate the 2 foot high metal stands and plywood I saw on some of the streets near our hotel. I first thought they for use by street vendors. Instead, are quickly erected and placed in the middle of the walkway to allow people to pass through the flooded area without getting too wet. Our guides further explain that most stores have a special “gate” at the doorway of their shops that allows a panel to be inserted to keep water from coming in, but allow customers to enter over this artificial dam.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acqua_Alta
As I keep saying – so much to learn about every day.
After a bit of “sightseeing” in the Piazza, we move toward the St. Mark Basilica entrance. We are directed to view the Doges Palace, to the side of the Basilica. The Doge was the mayor of Venice. It was a high level political position with much influence on everyone's life and livelihood. We will visit the Doges Palace tomorrow.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Mark%27s_Basilica
As we visit the various places within the building, realize better what the area was like before Garibaldi. There were many city-states. Each with their own powerful ruler. So Rome, Florence and Venice, for many years were autonomous. For our tour focus – The Classics of Rome, Florence and Venice, this mainly refers to the Renaissance Age, when art and architecture flourished in competition with other city-states to attract the best and brightest minds to advance the culture. Garibaldi helped join the city-states together into what we think of as a unified Italy. One country.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giuseppe_Garibaldi
Since the weather was bright and warm, Cristina and Michela arranged for us to get our gondola ride in a day early. With the prior few days having grey skies and cooler temps, thought – great idea! What a thrill having the gondolier guide us down some narrow canals. Unlike the Grand Canal, that is wide enough for many boats to pass, these canals barely let two gondolas pass when going opposite ways. No one-way streets here.
We found out that if we wanted to hear a song while enjoying the ride we would have to hire 2 people. One to play the accordion and the other singing songs that were truly “foreign” to us. Without missing a chance, I got the other 4 tour members to join me in a few verses of You Are My Sunshine. We wouldn’t have won any “America’s Got Talent “ contest, but had great fun.
We have lunch @ Tavernetta San Maurizio on Campo San Maurizio. The food was... Interesting? Unusual? We had inky squid to eat that made our mouths and tongue black from the ink. I took a few photos, but promised I wouldn't publish them. Overall, a great “experience,” but not a place I would suggest.
Next, we are on our way to the Accademia Museum – Gallerie dell’ Accademia di Venezia. Since I have no photos of the interior and exhibits, must mean – no photos. I do remember though we passed what looked like a potential interesting exhibit - Leonardo. L’Uomo Vitruviano fra arte e scienza. The Art and Science of Leonardo Di Vinci and the Vetruvian Man. This was one of the few times I felt we might have been rushed through the building in the interest of seeing much of the special art. We were there just under 2 hours.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gallerie_dell'Accademia
http://www.gallerieaccademia.org/the-museum/?lang=en
So sorry I couldn’t find an English language version of this, but looking at Leonardo’s Vetruvian man, you can venture a guess to his genius of using mathematics – geometry and trigonometry - to apply to his view when sketching and designing.
http://www.slideshare.net/alfonsorubino/lannunciazione-vitruviana-di-leonardo
We were given free time after the tour to visit here in detail and see some of the other galleries nearby. I thought about seeing the Peggy Guggenheim. After a little thought – yep, a minute or less, decided to take a boat back to the hotel. Preferably one that made many stops. The sky was dimming with dusk and some building were starting to show their lights. For me, just the right time for “more photos.” By the end of that day, had collected about 1,100 snapshots. I refer to them as my “digital breadcrumbs.” They give me a record of where I was at what part of the day. I also carry a GPS – global position sensor – that allows me to match the times of this device with the digital time mark on the photos. Later I can overlay to a map to find – where were we? How much distance did we cover? Mostly though, what was the building or whatever I saw, got a shot, then will match on the Google map for reference. Very handy for me. Most days, I averaged 800 photos.
As I was starting high school, many new friends had difficulty pronouncing my long Polish surname. An Italian friend of mine shortened it to - Gino. Was glad for that. Got me invited to many Italian functions that when my name was said, they thought, a paisano, an Italian “homie.”
As we neared the hotel, spotted a neon sign that said – Welcome Home. No, really, it was “Gino’s Pizzeria.” Great pizza, that I could not have made better.
After a short walk, back to the room for my daily duty – download and save today's photos. If I lose my camera tomorrow, will be unhappy, but not sad that “all my stuff is gone.”
Photo 1. Our 48th honeymoon photo. A gondola ride in Venice (-:
Photo 2. The famous Rialto Bridge
Photo 3. A moonlit boat ride back to the hotel. Can it get any better (-:
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay25of28
Z is ... The mark of Zorro from TV adventures? Is this the end of our adventures? No, two more days of fun and frolicking.
We start the day’s adventures with a short vaporetto ride to the Rialto Mercato stop. Our guide for the day is Roseanna. I never did see her name tag, so apologize if I have it misspelled. Roseanna starts the tour by telling us about some of the 500 year old history of the market. The main parts are the the fruit and veggie stands, with the meat and seafood shops adjacent. This next link does a great job of showing the stall contents and telling a bit about what is going on.
http://eatrepeat.blogspot.com/2013/08/venice-rialto-market-mercato-di-rialto.html
If you go there, look for – Macellaria Equina – the horsemeat shop. Yes, horse, like in pony. I know, just the thought makes you feel – jumpy?
As we walked the various small streets, remembered the suggestion – look at the walls about 10 feet up at each corner. There may be a painted sign pointing to the direction you might be interested in. Maybe even a street or calle name sign. For Rialto bridge area – the sign read – Per Rialto, with arrow below pointing to the general direction of the Rialto Bridge. For St. Mark’s Square, the sign read – Per S Marco. For us, if lost, look for the Alla Ferrovia – for the Santa Lucia Railway Station. Once there, only minutes away from our hotel. Check this for more details on using the train to and from Venice to the mainland.
http://europeforvisitors.com/venice/articles/venice-railroad-station.htm
There is also a section titled - Top 11 Tourist Mistakes
http://europeforvisitors.com/venice/articles/top-tourist-mistakes.htm
One of our key stops beside the Rialto markets is the Basilica dei Frari (Friars), also known as Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. This church has many beautiful works of art as well as funerary monuments for many historic notables.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Maria_Gloriosa_dei_Frari
When finished at the Frari, we board another vaporetto @ St Tomas and travel to the Accademia stop. When then have a chance to view a workshop where new gondolas are created and others are renovated. The work is detailed and made special for each gondolier. There is an offset weight on the bottom to help provide boat balance whether paddling alone or with as many as 6 passengers.
We next walk to Ristorante San Trovaso in Dursoduro. Enjoy a good meal, then again board a vaporetto that will take is from the Accademia stop to the San Marco stop for us to visit the Doges Palace.
http://www.ristorantesantrovaso.it/menu.php
The word Doge is pronounced doe-j. When I went to visit the link below noticed “someone” had inserted a picture of a dogee – yep, like in puppy, in place of a mayor of times many hundred years in the past – too funny, just like the hats the Doges wore (-:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doge's_Palace,_Venice
The palace was also the place where people would leave anonymous notes in a special passage to advise the authorities of a crime. The crime would be investigated and if found true, a trial would occur. If convicted, the prison was part of the complex which could be reached over a small canal via a bridge. The famous name of the bridge dates from the Romantic period and was supposed to refer to the sighs of prisoners who, passing from the courtroom to the cell in which they would serve their sentence, took a last look at freedom as they glimpsed the lagoon and San Giorgio church through the small windows.
One of those convicted of a crime, was none other than the suave talking Giancomo Casanova. He was one of the rare few that was able to escape. With inside help it was believed.
http://www.italyguides.it/us/venice_italy/doge_s_palace/giacomo_casanova/casanova_s_cell.htm
After a full afternoon of walking, we boarded a vaporetto and headed back to the hotel. Dinner was to be @ 7:30. The sun was sinking into the Western waters and for me, a great time to get those special photos as buildings along the Grand Canal were being lighted both inside and out. A wonderful time to get photos we can’t during the bright daylight.
Dinner was again at Ristorante Povoledo, where we ate 2 evenings before. Each table sat 6 people so it made for a cozy arrangement to discuss the day’s activities. Can you guess what variation of tiramisu we had for dessert? It tasted sweet and good.
Back to the hotel and get ready for our last day of touring – next stop - The Island Of Murano Glass factories.
Photo 1. Our vaporetto ride to the Rialto Bridge stop
Photo 2. Shows a high powered and expensive water taxi
Photo 3. If you are prepared for a more leisurely ride, a gondola is nice (-:
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay26of28
Still two more days touring and ran out of alphabet letters. Maybe we can go from alpha – α - to omega - Ω ?
Way back in Day 1 of this journal, I wrote this paragraph; “You are probably reading this because sometime in your life you learned to read by using phonics. Before that though, learned about the alphabet. You know, that A-B-C stuff early in your life. So what does this have to do with this adventure? A lot. It all started thousands of years ago, by some folks known as Phoenicians.”
The Greeks then made adaption as they used the Phoenician alphabet, it started with the letter α and ended 24 letters later with Ω. Today we are at the beginning of the end. The end of our – Carol, mine and the 37 additional “tourists” - who were with us in Malta, and the 30 who were part of our Italian adventures.
At 10 a.m., we board a vaporetto for the 20+ minute boat ride to the Island of Murano. Today, we have an opportunity for a glass blowing demonstration at the Ferro Lazzarini Glassworks. It was nice to have a chance to see work being done of various types of projects. The presenter from the factory, looked through the audience to make sure their might NOT be a Chinese visitor, who might be there to steal some ideas of a popular item. We were told that each year, there are fewer glassworks making Venetian glass. He said that many gift shops in Venice sell the Chinese knockoffs because that is what the visitors are interested in – a piece of glass art bought in Venice. Folks back home won’t know where the origin was.
The total population of Venice also decreases by the year and is now near 58,000. Not that long ago it was over 150,000.
"Tourism is a double-edged sword. Each day, more than 60,000 people visit Venice - more than the entire population of the city.”
http://www.dw.de/tourism-overwhelms-vanishing-venice/a-16364608
After reading this, think about my first visit to Disneyworld – Orlando Florida in 1972. The year I moved to Florida with a new job. I was lucky enough to get to Disney, because of a weekend business event from my employer. From our wedding in 1965, the best we could do, for an exotic vacation, was travel by car to go camping. That continued until we left Florida in 1984 and yet for a few more years after coming to Michigan. Would tourism help or hinder Florida? Go figure.
My intent for all these travels was to have a family adventure. Even with the children grown and gone – the love of adventures has continued. It is only in the recent handful of years, that we decided to make use of pre-planned adventures through Road Scholar. We know our physical ability to be part of some of what is offered, is limited by being able to walk. None of us know what situation, physical by misfortune, or medical may change that overnight.
So, as I tell many who have the patience to listen to my stories – sometimes long and maybe with too much detail than they are interested in. This is not to brag about where we have visited, but to encourage them to travel. The more remote or different in culture, the better. We are “one world.” More in similarity than differences.
For us, this journey and adventure is coming to end end – the omega Ω. For you, hope it may prompt you to plan your own adventure, even if to a place in your own city that you said many times – we need to go visit...?
Sorry I got talking too much and not explain what we saw on the boat ride to Murano. I’ll let the additional photos on the link at the end of today - explain.
We did buy a few baubles in Murano. The cost of some items we viewed were in excess of $100,000 US. I don’t think I either want to carry it – too heavy, or put in my luggage and risk being damaged. We were impressed with what we saw. In some ways though, similar to what we saw at Mdina in Malta. Although not as low cost as Chinese made – all was beautiful.
When finished with the glasswork visit, had the option to return back to our hotel, or catch an alternate vessel to visit the nearby islands of Burano and Torcello.
http://www.viator.com/tours/Venice/Murano-Burano-and-Torcello-Half-Day-Sightseeing-Tour/d522-2495ABTOUR2/photos
Hope you liked some of the 180+ photos on this link.
We got back to the hotel area and hope for another stop @ Gino’s Pizzeria. Uh-No – not open until 5 p.m. We go next door , have some goodies, then back to catch a vaporetto that will take us on the same basic route we had this morning to Murano. Except – this time, wanted to make all the stops, from the railway station to Lido Island, with our planned departure point – St. Marks Square.
We just love being on a the water, no matter the size of the craft – could have been a inner tube from an old car, but the weather a bit nippy to have tried that.
The plan was not any particular place, but to walk. You would have thought we had enough after 27 days. Nope. We wandered the Square, getting our last daylight glimpse of the city. Tomorrow – up early for boat ride to airport, than an “alleged” 7 minute walk from where the boat leaves us, to the front entrance at the airport terminal.
Meander, we did. Another somewhat planned stop – Rialto Bridge. Using our sign reading skills from the other day, went street corner to corner looking up to see the sign with arrow pointing the direction. Without any issues, got there. Bought some pastries to fortify the body and back walking. Next direction, was back to the railway station. Many turns at the various street corners that pointed the general direction. Eventually, we are standing next the the Basilica San Simeon, looking across the canal to the railway station.
We are back in enough time to freshen up a bit before our farewell dinner in the hotel restaurant. As with most departures, there were a few teary eyes and comments about missing us. Yes, we will miss the camaraderie of the group too.
Before dinner, our talented group member, Gini, pleased us with this special song. "O mio babbino caro" ("Oh My Beloved Father") by Giacomo Puccini. The event in the aira takes place in Florence, Italy near the Ponte Vecchio Bridge over the River Arno.
Photo 1. We passed a display of Murano glass everyday in the lobby of Hotel Principe
Photo 2. Shows a glass craftsman in one of the several competing factories
Photo 3. Our last evening walk in Venice (-:
Click below for today's online photo album.
https://picasaweb.google.com/magwheel44/2013C2CDay27of28
